DaFoodie

A long time ago (17 months, to be exact) in a galaxy far, far away (ok, it was actually Casselberry) lived a kosher restaurant called Amira’s. The family that ran it, the Cohens, had a very loyal following and Amira herself would come out and give you samples of cookies that she made for her own grandchildren. Much to the shock and dismay of Central Florida, Amira’s closed up shop and left a very large, empty spot in our tummies and hearts.

The good news is that the Cohen’s son, Justin, opened the doors to Cohen’s Deli so that we don’t have to miss out the glatt-kosher goodness.

The bad news is that it’s quite a hike. Located in Clermont near Highway 27 and Highway 192, it is about a 40-minute drive from downtown Orlando. As I sit in tourist traffic, I often wonder why Justin has forsaken me (and my kishka cravings). Once I sit down and am served, however, I’m instantly plotting my next trip.

When most goyim think “kosher Jewish cuisine,” they’re entertaining thoughts of chains like TooJays (not kosher!) or anywhere that serves matzoh ball soup. Cohen’s deli follows the strict Jewish dietary laws called kashrut, and they are also a kosher butcher. This is great news for their patrons, as you can not only get great beef and poultry items on the menu but also walk out with some incredible cuts. Cohen’s glatt-kosher beef is fresh, free-range and hormone-free. In addition to beef, they have veal, lamb, and poultry, as well as pastrami, salami, roast beef, turkey pastrami, and chopped liver (yum - I highly recommend the chopped liver). As they’re not a huge supermarket, I advise you to call ahead to find out what they have available before you drive out if you plan on taking any meats home.

The sandwiches, if you’re not getting a wrap, come on either challah, rye, 7-grain, sourdough, or challah kaiser. They can be upgraded to a Manhattan sandwich for those who truly are gluttons for overeating punishment. The regular sandwiches are served with one side of either potato salad, a knish, fries, kugel, BBQ beans, potato latkes, cucumber or pasta salad, but if you make your sandwich a Manhattan you’ll get two sides and a full pound of meat in your sandwich. Seriously, the regular sandwiches are so large, the Manhattans border on the obscene and have been described as being “as big as the size of your head.”

The only way that you can really describe the menu items at Cohen’s is stuffed. In many cases, overstuffed. Every item I’ve ever ordered is packed full of meats or dressings or extras. It’s truly the epitome of comfort food.

One thing I love about Cohen’s is the pickles and pickled cabbage that you’re served right when you walk in. I could eat those all day. If you’re still in the mood for an appetizer, they have hummus, puff pastries, potato latkes (YUM), chicken wings (boneless or bone-in), chopped liver, and kishka (oh, honey, I have a paragraph on the kishka coming up - keep reading). I also get a potato knish as an appetizer, even though they’re technically a side, and they also come in corned beef, meat, or kasha.

Cohen’s also has salads, veggie wraps, homemade chilis and soups, open-faced meatloaf and turkey sandwiches, marinated rib steak, and also have specials. Here are our kosher beef ribs, which are so moist they fall off the bone:

To the right of the ribs are Justin’s homemade chicken tenders with homemade sauce. I cannot recommend Justin’s chicken tenders enough, and crave them sometimes completely at random. Yes, THAT good.

The sandwiches (yes, stuffed) are many and varied, and you can get them on either bread or in a wrap. Different sandwich offerings are a Sloppy Joe (SIX different kinds - I’m not kidding), chicken salad, pastrami, corned beef, roast beef, brisket, turkey pastrami, tuna salad, egg salad, hot or cold tongue, salami, bologna, chicken breast, teriyaki wraps, French Dip, chicken (fried and grilled), and their famous Mom’s Chopped Liver (yum). For you veggiesaurs, they have an awesome falafel sandwich. Here is a chicken salad sandwich with a side of potato salad:

A demolished bowl of matzoh ball soup is peeking at you from the corner, and I’m thrilled that the weather has cooled off enough for me to get my soup on again. For the munchkins, Cohen’s has a great kid’s menu which offers a kosher beef hot dog, a turkey sandwich, a hamburger, or chicken tenders. Justin and his wife have an awesome blended family, so they know what kids like and their munchkin menu does not disappoint.

So, the kishka. Kishka is a side dish (or for me, a 2-day binge if my family would let me) that is made from schmaltz (rendered beef fat) and matzoh meal which is cooked in a sausage casing. It’s taken out of its casing, resembling a tube, and then sliced like a bologna and served smothered in beef gravy. Because that doesn’t sound gross or anything, here’s what it looks like:

MMmmmmmmmmmm hmmmmmmm. Yes, your cholesterol just went up 22 points looking at that picture, but trust me. It is DELICIOUS. It is comfort food, and all you can do is just sit and smile after you’ve consumed it. I’ve never tried to make it at home because I’d never cook anything else and would be served with divorce papers from my husband and emancipation papers from my kids. Instead, I just drool on the 40-minute drive to Cohen’s.

And it’s so worth it.

Cohen’s Deli & Butcher Shop
16640 Cagan Crossings Boulevard
Clermont, FL 34714
(352) 729-3399

Hours: Sunday- Thursday 11a-9p, closed Fridays & Saturdays and Jewish Holidays (deli open only for take-out orders on Fridays)
Catering available
Website